Sunday, December 10, 2006

Shukriya + Namasté.

Shukriya + Namasté

I hope you have enjoyed this glimpse of India. It certainly has been a pleasure to experience and share. I would like to say shukriya (Hindi for 'thank you') to Hasmik for meeting me in Zurich and for the delicious swiss chocolate croissant, to my colleagues Jen and Steph for their pleasant companionship, to Judy and Kristin for use of their guidebooks, to Anand for linking me up with his cousin, to Lakshmi for meeting me despite the riots, to Jean and Melissa for a wonderful afternoon at the Taj, to Rati for introducing me to parathas, to Charlie and Oxanna for the wine and excellent visit, to Sochieta for just being so wonderful, to Darla for being such a good commenter, to Mom for making me call home, and last but not least.. THANK YOU for reading!

I leave you with the Indian greeting/goodbye that i particularly love - Namasté. When offering this salutation, it is commonly accompanied by a slight bow made with the hands pressed together in front of the chest. According to Wikipedia, this salutation can be taken to mean any of the following..

The God in me sees and honors the god in you.
The Spirit in me meets the same Spirit in you.
I greet that place where you and I are one.
May the God within you, bless you.
I salute the Light of God in you.
I bow to the divine in you.

enjoying the sunset on Bombay's Chowpatty beach

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Family Reunion in Frankfurt

i love the sleek and modern European design

It is usually a bummer to have a six-hour layover when you are flying somewhere. However, it's actually really nice when such a long layover allows you the opportunity to visit family you haven't seen in several years. On my way back from India i had a long stopover in Frankfurt, which was enough time for me to catch up with my cousin Charlie and his wife Oxanna. I haven't seen my cousin in at least five years, and it was the first time i was able to meet his lovely wife.

Charlie and i during our quick tour of Frankfurt

Charlie is in the U.S. Air Force and has been stationed in Germany the past four years. He said i was the first in the family to visit him since he has lived there (making me the #1 cousin i think!). Since he and his wife live an hour away and don't make it to Frankfurt often, it was fun to check out the city center together.

Charlie says he loves the German milk.. now i know why

Charlie met his wife Oxanna about three years ago while she was studying in Germany. Originally from Russia, she speaks fluent english as well as german. We got some excellent coffee and a snack while catching up on the past couple of years. Despite the early hour (10:30 am), i really wanted to enjoy a fresh German beer while i was there. Lucky for us, we easily found a tavern that was open. Since we were limited on time, we ordered a few small beers that were delicious. A quick visit, but well worth it!

Oxanna and i enjoying a tasty German bier

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Friday, December 08, 2006

developing India.

these kids took a break from playing to ham it up for the camera

There is something endearing about traveling in the developing world. I do not mean this in any condescending sense. It is just that when traveling in the developing world, you have the opportunity to see humanity acting daily life out right before you.. and it is absolutely fascinating. As a visitor, you can feel much more connected to a place when you witness how people actually live.

One of the exciting things about India is that it is essentially moving from the stone age to the technological age, overnight. Keep in mind that the modern transformation of the developed world took place over decades, if not centuries. Technology developed steadily (albeit at ever faster and faster rates) and today’s developed nations were able to “grow up” gradually. Today’s developing nations, particularly India and China, are practically leaping from infancy to adulthood at breakneck speed. Someone here described what is happening as an “economic miracle.” A bit much perhaps, but it still is incredible.

This little guy tried to sell me a mini Taj Mahal, a true entrepreneur

When some Westerners visit the developing world they end up feeling quite sorry for the people they encounter. I don’t. Not because i don’t think people around the world are suffering, but because not everyone needs to reach the standard of living that we are accustomed to in order to be happy. Suffering is the true scourge of humanity, but in its absence is flourishing life, regardless of the material surroundings. We all know people that are utterly miserable but still manage to have good jobs and decent places to live (not to mention plenty to eat). Just because you are a “poor” boy from Delhi without an iPod, a Playstation, or even shoes does not mean that you are at a disadvantage in life.

one night i met Rohit, a young guy like myself and successful businessman

I think one of the most beautiful things about life is that we can always aspire to something greater while appreciating what we have around us. One of my colleagues remarked, “It’s ironic that we are eating so well in a country where people are going hungry.” But the truth is, people here in India are mostly not going hungry, and relatively speaking, things are improving rapidly each day. It may not be apparent to Western eyes, but the standard of living in India will improve much faster than our own during this lifetime. How incredible and exciting is that?

If you place your own expectations and standards on people,
then you will never truly understand them.

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Thursday, December 07, 2006

sights from around Delhi

the magnificent Lotus Temple

Delhi certainly doesn’t possess the pumping energy of Mumbai, but i did find that it offers much more to see for the visitor. My first stop was the Lotus Temple, a impressive icon of the Baha’i faith. I have long admired the Baha’i faith as the most contemporary and progressive religion i have encountered, and was quite curious to see what this temple was all about.

I must say that the Lotus Temple did not disappoint, and it was hands down the second most incredible structure I saw in India (the Taj comes in first, of course). The temple itself is composed of 27 marble petals and is surrounded by 9 sparkling pools - spectacular!

A steady stream of visitors makes their way down the main path towards the temple. Once you reach the main entrance, volunteer workers from various countries (the girl who i spoke to was from Australia) give a brief introduction and ask visitors to be absolutely silent while inside. This is so that those who wish to pray or meditate may do so undisturbed. The interior was sparse, with rows of benches facing a simple altar, but along with the high reaching lotus petal ceiling and flood of natural light, the setting was wonderful.

the modern Delhi subway system

In an effort to try just about every mode of transportation Delhi has to offer (rickshaw, train, taxi, subway, and bicycle taxi) i made my way underground to see the new metro system. Although the system was opened in 2002, i was really impressed by how clean and modern this system is - not something you find common in India.

Delhi's landmark India Gate is a remnant of British rule

After the metro experience, I wanted to walk for a bit but quickly tired of stepping over pools of urine, avoiding mangy dogs, and dodging rickshaws. I saw a bicycle taxi driver eager for my business and hopped on.

view from the seat of a bicycle taxi

He pedaled me down the cramped streets of Old Delhi, where i got a good look at the centuries old marketplace known as Chawri Bazaar. Small storefronts line the street selling everything from pharmaceuticals and plumbing supplies to greeting cards and cell phones. I have no idea why, but i saw no less than half a dozen greeting card shops on this street.

the bustling Chawri Bazaar in Old Delhi

Muslims pass by a blanket vendor

The bicycle driver dropped me off at Jama Masjid, India’s largest mosque. This mosque was erected by the same Mughal emperor who built the Taj Mahal, and the similarities are evident. I made my way inside the complex walls and watched children laughing while throwing bird seed to pigeons in the main square. It was now 4pm, and the call to prayer boomed from the mosque’s loudspeakers.

the impressive Jama Masjid

 the wall surrounding the Jama Masjid complex

I then made my way to Delhi's Red Fort. The architecture here is similar in style to the Jama Masjid, but the complex is much, much larger. High walls surround the complex, which holds lovely gardens and open temple-like structures throughout. It takes a good twenty minutes to walk all the way from the front entrance to the back, with large open grassy spaces in between the buildings.

entrance to the Red Fort

typical architecture found in the Red Fort

these guards thought i was crazy for wanting their picture

the Red Fort offers so much to see

damn, is this cool or what?

i love this picture

My last night in Delhi, i was finally able to catch up with Lakshmi's friend Rati. We met up for dinner, after my rickshaw driver tried to con me out of 150 rupees for a 40 rupee trip. He claimed his meter was "broken," but i didn't buy it. I refused to give in, and he finally gave up when Rati arrived and set him straight in Hindi.

Rati and i enjoying some chai tea in her apartment

Rati and i had dinner at a great local restaurant that specializes in parathas, whole-wheat unleavened flatbread that is filled with cooked ground meat or a vegetable mixture. I ordered too much (even the waiter tried to dissuade me) but i wanted to try as much as possible - and it was great! Afterwards, Rati invited me over to her apartment for tea. It was neat to see her place. She told me that she recently hired a cook to prepare her meals. It costs her about $10 a month for the personal cook.. sounds great to me!

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quick hits from Bombay

this amiable shopkeeper was happy to have us

While i was in Bombay my colleagues and i hired a car for the day and the girls really wanted to do some shopping. Since they obliged my desire to pull over at the sight of a cricket match, i figured it was only fair.

what do you think - is this my color?

this dude will tell you about carpets all day

While the ladies tried on various items, i was left with the carpet guy downstairs who insisted on telling me all about the “magic carpet” rugs they had for sale, despite my insistence that i was not in the market for one. I humored him by listening politely for a good 20 minutes before he wore me out and i decided i’d rather join the girls in the dressing room.

a roasted peanut stand, which are quite popular here

We stopped off at a Hindu temple and it just so happened to be the holy day. A massive flood of people made their way in the temple one way and streamed out the other. Outside the temple, small stands lined the road selling peanuts, religious articles, and flowers. We joined the river of humanity and were swept along until we found ourselves inside. One of the temple guards noticed us, and though he did not speak english, he motioned for us to follow him.

Hindu devotees flowing in and out of the temple

The temple’s main alter is enclosed in a special building and the line of pilgrims stretched outside. Each person held a bunch of flowers they intended to take inside. The guard showed us in the special side door so we could see what the commotion was all about. Once inside, we saw the procession of people handing their flowers to the ‘alter keeper’ (i just made that term up), who placed the flowers next to a golden statue of a Hindu god. The alter keeper then took previously ‘blessed’ flowers from the alter and gave them to the pilgrim. The pilgrim also receives a bit of red dust for their forehead as a sign of their devotion. I was told this whole act is called “blessing the God.”

This stall is one of many selling flowers to pilgrims

My colleague Jennifer and i were able to take part as well. We both received a blessed flower and red dot. It was great to be a part of, and i was quite impressed at how welcomed we were at the temple. I wore the red dot proudly the rest of the day.

Hey, we just blessed the God.. cool, eh?

Here are some additional pictures i snapped around Mumbai:

Street vendor selling a variety of books

A cool house in the affluent Bandra area

Eve teasing is a form of sexual harassment - i just got a kick out of this sign

A pleasant jogger's park i visited - it cost me 4 cents to get in

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Monday, December 04, 2006

The One and Only - Taj Mahal

Yesterday morning i woke up early to catch the 7am train south to Agra, which is home to one of the world's most famous and impressive structures, the Taj Mahal. It was to be my first experience with the Indian rail system. I was a bit concerned when i purchased my ticket the day before because the train was quite full and the only tickets left were in the lowest class. The fare cost less than $4 round trip for a 3 hour journey. My concerns were not at all relieved when i saw the front page of the paper on the way to the station, which declared quite bluntly - BRIDGE CRUSHES TRAIN, 33 DEAD.

The Delhi train station is a hub of activity

The trip to Agra was quite cramped, to say the least. I was crushed between two people on a bench seat and the aisles were packed full of people without actual seats. Each time I moved my arms I was doing so while being pressed upon by my neighbors. I felt sorry for myself as the woman to my right kept falling asleep on my shoulder, and could not wait for the 3 hour train ride to be over. At one point the train stopped, I’m not sure why, and a man pointed out a stone throwing fight that was going on a few hundred feet away.

They really pack em in the local trains here

I finally made it to Agra and to the Taj Mahal, but not before being harrassed by touts every ten feet. The key is to not allow them a single opening - wave them away immediately with a stern 'no' and avoid eye contact, that should do the trick. Otherwise, you are in for no less than ten minutes of consistent pestering to buy whatever it is they are trying to sell you.

When i got in the "security line" to enter the Taj Mahal complex i was told by a tout a minute who wanted to be my "guide" that the line would take two hours, but they could get me in within five minutes, no problem. I figured i'd try my luck with the line. Feeling tired and hungry and near my wits end, i thought "This better be worth it." It was.

The Taj Mahal is one of those things you have always seen, always known, but it seems far away forever. When you see it in person, the building is absolutely spectacular. Very few structures on this planet leave you staring in awe for more than a few minutes, but the Taj Mahal maintains its impressiveness for hours. Every picture you take, every time you look up to it, the Taj just doesn't seem real. It is absolutely incredible.

I took my time as i made my way from the main gate to the entrance to the Taj Mahal. I wanted to savor the experience of seeing the Taj while enjoying the respite from the touts outside. The white marble glistens in the midday sun, and up close actually feels somewhat blinding. As the sun moves across the sky, the building appears to change color .

One of the mosques flanking the Taj

Several things that I did not know about the Taj Mahal until visiting:

  • The Taj was built by Shah Jahan in the 1600's as a symbol of love for his favorite wife, who died giving birth to their 14th child
  • It took 20,000 workers over 22 years to complete the building
  • The Taj is flanked on each side by a mosque, one is real and one is a replica for symmetry
  • Intricately carved floral designs are inlaid with precious stones
  • The play of light on the building symbolically implies the presence of Allah
These 400 hundred year old carvings feature precious stones

While relaxing in the shade continuing to admire the Taj, i noticed two American girls that got off my same train in the morning. I introduced myself and we swapped India travel stories. Jean and Melissa are from Chicago and are here a few days before starting a two week graduate course in Kerala. After talking for a bit, we decided find a place where we could cool off and enjoy some cold beers. We found an awesome little hotel with a perfect view of the Taj. We drank Kingfisher beers (whose slogan is "The King of Good Times") and enjoyed a full meal for less than two bucks. It was an awesome way to spend the afternoon.

Melissa, Jean and i enjoying some beers with a priceless view

The train ride back to Delhi wasn't so bad. I hung out with Melissa and Jean for a bit until there wasn't any space for me, and then found a seat next to two Japanese dudes who have been backpacking for seven months. They had met Brad Pitt two weeks prior on the street and told me the story more than once, but my favorite part was when Ju Ling said, "I'm not gay, but he is beautiful man, sooooooo beautiful."

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Travel By Rickshaw, Anyone?

All set for a rickshaw ride.. giddiup!

One of the more exciting ways to travel in India is by auto rickshaw. These little buggies are really no more than a modified scooter with a cab plopped over top. These green and yellow or brown pods are seen everywhere, darting in and out of the absolute madness that is Indian traffic. Without any doors, this method of transportation is cheap and unsafe as all hell - making it the ONLY way to travel for me!

rickshaws lining up for gas

In an effort to share with you the excitement that is taking a rickshaw ride in India, i tool several video clips for your enjoyment. Be sure to turn up the volume so you can hear as well as see the fun - check them out below!




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Saturday, December 02, 2006

Darn Riots!

While in Mumbai i wanted to meet up with my buddy Anand’s cousin, Lakshmi. We tried getting together last night so she could show me a night on the town but our plans were, well.. you might say derailed. I received a text message from her (i was assigned a mobile phone for work, don’t get too excited that i am a texter) that said the following:

“I don’t think I will be able to make it out tonight on account of the riots.”

What??!? Well, apparently a politician’s statue was desecrated earlier in the day, sparking off riots which resulted in three deaths, the torching of several train cars, and “stone throwing.” As an editor of a major newspaper and resident of the affected area, Lakshmi was holed up in her office to avoid the madness but also to get the breaking story to press.

This poor victim of the riots burns

We were able to get together for lunch today, and I got a laugh when Lakshmi told me quite seriously, “Oh you should see the riots when the cricket team isn’t doing well.”

Lakshmi and i after having lunch in the riot-free hotel

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Friday, December 01, 2006

Entertainment, India Style


In case you didn’t know, India is home to the largest film industry in the world, affectionately known as Bollywood. As part of the business conference I’ve been attending, we were treated to an incredibly entertaining show known as a ‘Bollywood Extravaganza’ celebrating Mumbai’s film industry. Former Miss World and Bollywood star Diana Hayden was the master of ceremonies for the evening and led the audience through the program, explaining the styles of song and dance typified by Bollywood blockbuster films. Check out the pictures and video clips below!

If you have any problems viewing the above video, please see it here.

If you have any problems viewing the above video, please see it here.

Is this Vegas or India?

Former Miss World and Bollywood actress Diana Hayden

A Bollywood performer shows off the glitzy side of India

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Wednesday, November 29, 2006

i ♥ cricket!

Hundreds of boys out playing pick-up cricket at the park

A few years ago while living in Australia i really got into cricket. Yes, cricket. The World Cup of cricket was going on at the time and Australia dominated every country they played, so it wasn’t difficult to get caught up in the excitement. Believe it or not, the sport is actually pretty awesome. Cricket is by far the most popular sport in India, and it is played in all of the former English colonies (Australia, Pakistan, Canada, Kenya, South Africa, etc.). When i arrived in India i was soooooo excited to turn on the television and see cricket being televised on ESPN Asia constantly.

Awaiting a bowl in this pick-up game

I always describe cricket like this: it's kind of like baseball, but more exciting! Each pitch (or bowl) is a potential run scoring opportunity while a "home run" in cricket is worth SIX runs every time you hit one over the fence – this is creatively called a "six". The batsman can hit the ball in any direction (forward, to the side, even backwards) but must protect the plate, or the “wicket.” Behind the batsman, the wicket consists of three posts with a crossbar balanced across the top. If the ball hits these posts, knocking off the crossbar, the batsman is out. Each batsman is up at the "plate" or wicket and continues batting and scoring until he is out. You only get one out per match, so you better make it count. The best players can sometimes score a hundred runs (a century) in a single at bat (see, i told you it is more exciting than baseball).

A bowler comes running in from the left and the batsman winds up on the right

A batsman swings for glory while protecting the wicket


The most famous rivalry in cricket is between England and Australia, and it is called the Ashes. The Ashes series began way back in 1882 and has been played every year since. Last year England beat Australia to reclaim the Ashes trophy for the first time in 19 years! This year the best of five Ashes series is being played in Australia, which just kicked off last week. Australia drubbed England in the first of five test matches winning by 277 runs!

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Monday, November 27, 2006

Mumbai or Bombay? Either is fine.

Women strolling in their brightly colored garb

My first full day in Mumbai provided an excellent opportunity to see some of the city before work responsibilities moved in on the free time. In case you didn't know, Mumbai used to be called Bombay. The name was changed in 1996 as a way to move beyond the colonial past. Since then several other cities have followed suit, but most people still call the city Bombay.

Fresh roasted peanuts anyone?

My colleagues and i hired a car for the day to get out and see the city. Normally i would be opposed to such luxury, citing the backpacker ethos of cheapest, slowest, and most uncomfortable. However, we are staying a good 45 minutes drive from the downtown area and our time is limited, so hiring a car made sense. It actually worked out great as we were able to see a lot of great things over the course of several hours.

Where can i get a hat like that?!

One thing that strikes me is that there are simply people EVERYWHERE. It's not to the kind of shoulder to shoulder crush that i had imagined, but it seems nearly impossible to find a place that is quiet and out of the sight of others. I don't think you really consider this fact until there is absolutely no escape from the humanity around you. Add that to the fact that when you are obviously not Indian you get curious looks from just about everyone.
Profile of the Gateway of India

One of the major sights in Mumbai is the Gateway of India. This fine structure was built to commemorate the King of England's visit in 1911 during colonial rule, hence the Victorian influence. It is only fitting that when the British were ousted in 1948 that they left from this same point. Today, the only boats that depart from here are ferries that take tourists across the harbor to visit the historic Elephanta Island.

Is it me, or do these parents think their kid is going to bolt any second?

Mumbai is a city of fascinating contrasts. Forty percent of the country's GDP is generated in Mumbai, yet poverty remains a major issue. Crumbling structures lie right next to brand new buildings. Billboards advertise mutual fund investments while children beg for pennies on the street. When you think of Hollywood, celebrities, sunshine, and beaches may come to mind. Believe it or not, Mumbai (aka "Bollywood") boasts the largest film industry in the world, but the ocean is not fit for swimming.

This family lives under a tarp on the side of the road

Old and soon to be new buildings

The most amusing part of the day came when we visited the Gateway to India. Several touts swarmed around us the moment we stepped out of the car, hounding us constantly by attempting to hand us things and then request payment.

After tying us in knots, these girls demanded payment

Two young girls managed to tie bracelets on the wrists of my three female colleagues and then begged for payment. The trick was that they tied the bracelets on with a knot that my companions could not get untied(!), despite their best efforts. As we walked away, the girls followed, protesting that they were being taken advantage of until we finally escaped.

The stamp of British rule remains visible today

Some of the city's most beautiful buildings were built during the colonial era

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Sunday, November 26, 2006

To the other side of the world..

No matter which way you slice it, the plane ride from the United States to India is a very LOOOOONG flight… 16+ hours from DC to be exact ( or 20 hours if you count the layover in Zurich). I tried to stay awake the majority of the time so that i would get a good night’s sleep after arriving in Mumbai. This strategy worked, as i have felt none of the ill effects that generally come with flying to the other side of the world (i.e. jet lag).

sunrise over the Alps (view out the plane window)

I have decided that Switzerland is possibly the most beautiful place in the world. It would be absolutely perfect if it was warmer and had beaches, but the Alps more than make up for what is lost with the lack of ocean scenery. My flight crossed the Atlantic during the night and as we approached Zurich for our stopover the sun rose in the east, casting a pink glow over the snow-capped Alps.. spectacular.

cafe' and chocolate.. mmmmmm!

During my layover in Zurich, i was fortunate enough to visit with my friend Hasmik. We met a few years ago in Australia and have kept in touch ever since. She was gracious enough to meet me at the airport for cappuccino and a croissant filled with swiss chocolate.. c’est magnafique. Hasmik is recently engaged to her awesome boyfriend Erwin – congratulations! It was great to see her and catch up. On my flight home from India i am going to try and see my cousin Charlie in Frankfurt, who i haven’t seen in over five years – hopefully it works out!

Hasmik and i during our quick visit

After arriving in India, i was surprised at how quickly the baggage came out and was even more surprised when we had to have our luggage scanned on the way out of the airport. Already i could feel the moisture in the air thickening as i approached the airport exit. The warm air was a welcome surprise for me. In short order i was whisked away by a driver who held my name on a placard and my life in his hands as he negotiated the fantastic madness that is driving in India.

The key is to hang on tight when driving (or riding) in India!

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Sunday, November 19, 2006

Off to India!

Welcome to my new blog - a glimpse of India. I have had the fortune to travel to India for work and i wanted to be able to share the experience with you… well, the non-work experiences anyway. The itinerary is this – 6 days in Mumbai before spending the next 5 days in New Delhi. I will be spending much of the time working, but when i have the time you bet i will be getting out to see as much as i can! I hope you enjoy.. this glimpse of India.

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Posted by johnny 5 at 7:54 PM | | Comments

About me

  • I'm johnny 5
  • From Honolulu, Hawaii
  • My Grandfather led an extraordinary life.. as a teenager he worked in a steel mill, fought the Nazis at age 20, lived in Paris, traveled the world, became a pilot, married an amazing woman and raised a fantastic family. He taught me that life is full of incredible experiences which later become great stories and treasured memories. I've found that sometimes in life you just have to push everything aside and seek out those "once in a lifetime" experiences. "It is not the challenge among us, but the challenge within us." - Unknown
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