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The One and Only - Taj Mahal

Yesterday morning i woke up early to catch the 7am train south to Agra, which is home to one of the world's most famous and impressive structures, the Taj Mahal. It was to be my first experience with the Indian rail system. I was a bit concerned when i purchased my ticket the day before because the train was quite full and the only tickets left were in the lowest class. The fare cost less than $4 round trip for a 3 hour journey. My concerns were not at all relieved when i saw the front page of the paper on the way to the station, which declared quite bluntly - BRIDGE CRUSHES TRAIN, 33 DEAD.

The Delhi train station is a hub of activity

The trip to Agra was quite cramped, to say the least. I was crushed between two people on a bench seat and the aisles were packed full of people without actual seats. Each time I moved my arms I was doing so while being pressed upon by my neighbors. I felt sorry for myself as the woman to my right kept falling asleep on my shoulder, and could not wait for the 3 hour train ride to be over. At one point the train stopped, I’m not sure why, and a man pointed out a stone throwing fight that was going on a few hundred feet away.

They really pack em in the local trains here

I finally made it to Agra and to the Taj Mahal, but not before being harrassed by touts every ten feet. The key is to not allow them a single opening - wave them away immediately with a stern 'no' and avoid eye contact, that should do the trick. Otherwise, you are in for no less than ten minutes of consistent pestering to buy whatever it is they are trying to sell you.

When i got in the "security line" to enter the Taj Mahal complex i was told by a tout a minute who wanted to be my "guide" that the line would take two hours, but they could get me in within five minutes, no problem. I figured i'd try my luck with the line. Feeling tired and hungry and near my wits end, i thought "This better be worth it." It was.

The Taj Mahal is one of those things you have always seen, always known, but it seems far away forever. When you see it in person, the building is absolutely spectacular. Very few structures on this planet leave you staring in awe for more than a few minutes, but the Taj Mahal maintains its impressiveness for hours. Every picture you take, every time you look up to it, the Taj just doesn't seem real. It is absolutely incredible.

I took my time as i made my way from the main gate to the entrance to the Taj Mahal. I wanted to savor the experience of seeing the Taj while enjoying the respite from the touts outside. The white marble glistens in the midday sun, and up close actually feels somewhat blinding. As the sun moves across the sky, the building appears to change color .

One of the mosques flanking the Taj

Several things that I did not know about the Taj Mahal until visiting:

  • The Taj was built by Shah Jahan in the 1600's as a symbol of love for his favorite wife, who died giving birth to their 14th child
  • It took 20,000 workers over 22 years to complete the building
  • The Taj is flanked on each side by a mosque, one is real and one is a replica for symmetry
  • Intricately carved floral designs are inlaid with precious stones
  • The play of light on the building symbolically implies the presence of Allah
These 400 hundred year old carvings feature precious stones

While relaxing in the shade continuing to admire the Taj, i noticed two American girls that got off my same train in the morning. I introduced myself and we swapped India travel stories. Jean and Melissa are from Chicago and are here a few days before starting a two week graduate course in Kerala. After talking for a bit, we decided find a place where we could cool off and enjoy some cold beers. We found an awesome little hotel with a perfect view of the Taj. We drank Kingfisher beers (whose slogan is "The King of Good Times") and enjoyed a full meal for less than two bucks. It was an awesome way to spend the afternoon.

Melissa, Jean and i enjoying some beers with a priceless view

The train ride back to Delhi wasn't so bad. I hung out with Melissa and Jean for a bit until there wasn't any space for me, and then found a seat next to two Japanese dudes who have been backpacking for seven months. They had met Brad Pitt two weeks prior on the street and told me the story more than once, but my favorite part was when Ju Ling said, "I'm not gay, but he is beautiful man, sooooooo beautiful."

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It was a fantastic day with good beer and good company. Jean and I decided to skip Mumbai and head to Goa for 3 days instead. It was outstanding! Very relaxing--very little hounding. We stayed at a little beach place about 100 yards from the Arabian Sea! We start our graduate program tomorrow. Good times in India. Great blog!

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About me

  • I'm johnny 5
  • From Honolulu, Hawaii
  • My Grandfather led an extraordinary life.. as a teenager he worked in a steel mill, fought the Nazis at age 20, lived in Paris, traveled the world, became a pilot, married an amazing woman and raised a fantastic family. He taught me that life is full of incredible experiences which later become great stories and treasured memories. I've found that sometimes in life you just have to push everything aside and seek out those "once in a lifetime" experiences. "It is not the challenge among us, but the challenge within us." - Unknown
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